La vie au Quebec

My red eye flight with Air Canada was, as is no surprise to any of you that have flown with Air Canada, delayed. I missed my connecting flight but caught the very next one (though my bags did not). Anyway, enough complaining about Government funded private ventures that are bound to fail…

Quebec has been more wonderful than I could ever have imagined. My host, Danny, is a fantastic cook and continues to surprise us with delicious recipes at every meal.

July 1st is known in Quebec as the moving day. People take it seriously and actually do move on Canada Day – there is probably some deep symbolism behind their choice of days – but I prefer not to think about it. My host, Danny, is also in the process of moving, so while he worked to get things transferred to his new apartment, I went for a walk in the old city of Quebec.

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The old city or Vieux-Quebec is located beside the St. Lawrence river. The smaller width of the river as it enters the towns of Quebec and Lévis, on the opposite bank, provided the name given to the city, Kebec being the Algonquin word meaning “where the river narrows”. It doesn’t appear very narrow to me, but I guess it’s a relative thing.

Walking through the old city makes me feel like I’ve travelled back in time. Founded almost 400 years ago (1608), the old buildings and French architecture have a magic way of connecting me with my Canadian heritage. I spent the day walking around taking a plethora of photographs of Quebec.

Bang

That evening my new roommate and I walked down to The Plains of Abraham and enjoyed a free concert followed by Canada Day fireworks. As a note of potential interest I learned that the Plains of Abraham is the largest urban park in Canada, and repeating this fact at the Welcome Party last night won me a nice red University of Laval t-shirt.

On Sunday Danny took us to see La Chute Montmorency (Montmorency Falls). They were named in 1613 by Samuel de Champlain in honour of Henri II, duc de Montmorency, viceroy of New France. (That area of Canada used to be called New France).

La Chute Montmorency

It’s been too long since I’ve been around anything so breathtaking. There is a lot of water moving out into the St. Lawrence over the falls and I had a good time watching the hypnotic motion of the water falling so far down. Apparently early explorers were excited to have found such an abundant supply of fresh water so near the St. Lawrence River.

I’ve started my month long French immersion and I’m loving it! Of course I’m just at the elementary level, but I’m thrilled to have actual conversations with people in French. It’s a lot less stressful when you know the other person is just a nervous about their French as you are with yours.

Oh, and one last thing, the University pool is fantastique.

The Plains of Abraham

I’m counting the days before I head off to Québec City for the five weeks of intensive courses in French as a foreign language. I’m extremely excited and have been hitting the Speak and Read Essential French MP3’s extra hard lately.

I’ve also been reading up on the 1759 Battle for Québec. I find early Canadian history so rich with action and excitement, I love to read all about it! We’ve got our fair share of stories that would make brilliant blockbuster movies, allow me to share this one and let me know what you think.

The odds were stacked against New France. The British outnumbered the French three to one in ships, four to one in troops, and the Brits had a ten to one advantage in money.

I’ve been checking out Google maps to try and figure out where the attack must have happened. As the story goes, the British sailed down the St. Lawrence with more than 140 ships (one full quarter of the British Navy) and were spread over a distance of 50 miles. James Wolfe, the English General, had also in his command over 13,500 men — 9,000 of whom were from the best units in Britain.

It was the best trained and equipped army North America had seen, supported by the biggest and best fleet.
-popular historian Gordon Donaldson

However, conquering Québec City, “the Gibraltar of the New World” was not an easy task, and Wolfe soon discovered that despite his huge advantage there wasn’t really any way to get beyond the city’s fortified walls. Louis-Joseph de Montcalm, the French general, was misinformed by native-born Canadien and governor Pierre de Vaudreuil’s engineers that the English cannons did not have the range to reach them over the huge St. Lawrence River, and so didn’t reinforce the southern shore. In this they made a grave mistake.

Determined that he would wear the French down by sheer persistence, Wolfe ordered his cannons to pound the city for months killing civilians and destroying homes by the score. The prolonged destruction served no real military purpose other than to terrorize and demoralize the city’s inhabitants.

Summer turned to autumn and still Wolfe had not taken the fortified city. Time was beginning to run out for Wolfe, and he began to worry how he would explain to England why the attack was taking so long. He decided to try a new strategy.

Earlier, [Wolfe] had spotted a break in the cliffs west of the city, at a cove called l’Anse-au-Foulon. If [he] could somehow land his men undetected and then scale the cliffs, he might be able to put his army on the plains behind the city and draw Montcalm out into the open . . . and so it was, on a moonless night in mid-September, that a flotilla of 30 flat-bottomed boats slipped silently downriver with the tide.

On September 13, 1759, after bluffing their way past a French Sentry, an advance guard climbed the narrow trail and overpowered the French post at the top. The rest of the troops followed soon after pulling themselves onto the Plains of Abraham and by daybreak more than 4,500 English troops assembled on the far side of the City.

The surprise was complete. General Montcalm had been convinced that the final attack, if it came, would be on the other side of the city at the Beauport shore. When an aide suggested that the British might try to climb the cliffs, Montcalm had snorted with derision. “We do not need to imagine that the enemy has wings,” he wrote in his journal, “so that in one night they can cross the river, disembark, and climb the obstructed cliffs.” But now, they had done just that. As he hurried to assemble his troops, Montcalm looked out at the redcoats that were lining up behind the city, and complained, “They have no right to be there.”

Wolfe had managed to drag up only two light cannons. Montcalm decided that time was of the essence and that the British had to be attacked immediately, before they could dig in and strengthen their position. For the first time since the British arrived, Montcalm acted impulsively. He had 3,000 reinforcements somewhere behind the British lines—a message had been sent and they were on their way—but he didn’t wait for them to arrive. Instead, Montcalm gathered the troops he had on hand and threw open the city gates . . .

The battle lasted only 15 minutes. The British had formed a “thin red line,” two men deep, and the French advanced in a ragged charge, the regulars and the Canadiens stumbling over each other. Native snipers were picking off British soldiers from nearby woods, but Wolfe stood his ground. Then, when the French were only 30 paces away, the order was given. The redcoats raised their muskets and fired, one platoon after the next in rolling thunder across the Plains. Smoke filled the battlefield. The British re-loaded and advanced, emerging from the smoke like ghosts. They fired a second volley, and that was all it took. The French broke and ran.

Both Wolfe and Montcalm were killed due to injuries suffered in the battle, Wolfe on the Plains and Montcalm within the city walls. The two sides had each taken roughly the same number of losses, 650 each, and the British hadn’t really won anything of consequence, it was just a field, and in fact not a particularly safe one, but all the same the French were rattled.

The British had won a field. That was it. If anything, they were in a dangerously exposed position. Québec fell not because the British won, but because the French lost their nerve. Vaudreuil panicked and fled with his troops along a side road. Five days later, the city’s bewildered commander (who had been left behind without any clear instructions) surrendered the city. The Canadiens hadn’t been conquered by the British: they had been abandoned by France.

Exploring the Explore Program

I’ve had a letter from the Alberta government sitting on my table for the last couple days. Seeing it sitting there made me realize I should be more diligent in my letter opening consistency but I’ve developed a Pavlovian response that most of the time snail mail = bills, credit card applications, and a minefield of potential paper cuts. I decided today that I needed to turn over a new leaf and stay on top of the old-fashioned post.

I am pleased to say that this particular letter was, in fact, very good news. I’ve been accepted to the 5 week Explore program at Université Laval in Quebec City, Quebec (I wrote about it here). I am so excited!

The government funded French immersion program runs from July 3rd to August 4th, which is great, but as far as timing goes might make getting a job right out of University a little more difficult. At least this is a rather positive dilemma—you can’t really complain when everything seems to be going your way.

A friend of mine was giving me a bit of a hard time saying that if I move to Quebec I’ll become an official frog.

If I’ve learned anything from a lifetime of watching TV it’s that Princesses love to kiss toads (which are basically frogs, just less good looking) so if all goes according to plan, this could be the best five weeks of my life!

More updates as I get them.

An Almost Adventure from Mexico

Mexico was a much needed rest from work and the stress of finding an internship suitable to my interests and aspirations. It was also a chance to get a great tan. It’s funny how something as simple as a little colour in your complexion can make you feel so much better.

One of the things I was hoping for in Mexico was to go on an adventure that would make an incredible story that I could share with the world. I figured the only way that was going to happen is if I venture out on my own and meet some of the locals.

The beach volleyball action had picked up and I was having a good time taking a few photos of it with my new camera when I met Jose. We got to chatting about everything from Mexican politics to global warming. Apparently he figures Fox isn’t/wasn’t such a great president but he doesn’t have much hope for the next guys either. He also wondered if in 50 years it would be tropical in Canada and cold in Mexico. (It makes you wonder if global warming will be bad for everyone, eh?)

But seriously, despite his slightly broken English, he seemed like a pretty intelligent guy. He told me about a series of three waterfalls not too far away that he would take me to if I was interested. He said they were a great place to take some pictures and only a short bus ride away.

Immediately I felt a surge of apprehension because, you know, most of the time I am NOT VERY ADVENTUROUS AT ALL. I threw my concerns out the window and decided… yes either I’m going to see a lovely waterfall or it will be an adventure and if anything goes seriously wrong, well assuming I’m not dead, I’ll have a great story to boot. Either way it’s a win/win situation.

The only thing Jose wanted was for me to buy him a beer. I told him I wasn’t in the mood for a beer but pounding down the 1.5 litres of Mexican brewsky alone didn’t bother him a bit. (“Just a small bottle”, he said…)

I explained to him that before we left, I was going to need to tell my friends where I was going. After all, I may have been in the mood for adventure but I’m not turning completely irresponsible.

I had Jose wait in the lobby while I ran upstairs to tell the gang my plans and even offered to let them join in the adventure. Nope, they’d rather lounge around in the hotel room watching the soccer highlights—so I was on my own. At this point in time I was beginning to have serious doubts about whether heading off alone with some stranger in a land where I don’t even know the basics of the language was really a wise choice.

“Ok, let’s go!” I said to him as we headed out into the great unknown of Puerto Vallarta. It wasn’t long until he fired off a solid question straight out of left field that hit me like a ton of bricks.

“So, do you do any illicit drugs?” he probed. “Do you want to try coke? I don’t have any, but I know where we can get some.”

He wanted me to buy him some drugs. What the hell have I gotten myself into?

“No. No, I don’t really want to.” My stuttering probably indicated that the romance of adventure was fading fast. In fact, I thought to myself, I don’t even want to go to see the waterfalls anymore. The idea of sitting around watching soccer highlights in a hot and stuffy hotel room was gaining a lot of appeal.

Luckily for me, he could read my thoughts through my wide eyes and dropped jaw—you know it’s the look deer have when they are about to be pummelled by on-coming traffic.

“You don’t really want to come, do you?”

I told him I wasn’t too interested and thanked him for the offer (of the trip to see the waterfalls, not the offer to buy him some coke). Well if I didn’t want to buy him drugs, then would I mind buying him some lunch? I took off pretty much instantly after that, mumbling something about missing an important sporting event; ending my potential adventure with Jose.

Jose, wherever life might take you, I wish you the best but I’m glad I’m not along for the ride. Sometimes not having adventures is good too.

Our Day in Sayulita

This morning we hooked up with a bus for a day trip to Sayulita. Sayulita is a great place to go for beginners to learn to surf because of the fairly low, consistent waves that move in over a large shallow bay.

This was my first time trying to surf and I certainly am not that great at it. I did alright getting through the waves. I was alright the few times I found myself in front of nice rolling wave , but I can see that it would take a lot of practice to get really good at it.

I think my biggest problem was knowing where to go to catch the good waves. I didn’t want to crowd the group of people that seemed to know what they were doing, but at the same time, there was a reason they were all grouped by the tall breaking waves.

Me and a surfboard

After a couple hours I had my fill of surfing and just spent some time laying under a canopy, and enjoyed some time walking up and down the beach.

When we caught our bus home, we had some excitement play out right before our eyes. While stopped at a traffic light, we noticed a rather fat and shirtless American chasing a smiling Mexican with the very clear intent to cause him bodily harm. The Mexican was wearing a green shirt and seemed to be laughing that this guy was so mad at him. (I have no idea what started everything off). There was another American guy that jumped out of a Volkswagen beetle who swung and missed the guy in the green. Suddenly a second Mexican jumped on the second American, pinning him to the ground and feeding him punches. The fight was really on.

Some other Mexicans jumped in from off the street to try and break things up but that only lasted for a moment. The original Mexican in the green shirt was still laughing and running backwards away from the fat American, whom was swinging wildly and tripping himself as he pursued.

It looked like things might be simmered down when the Americans were just walking slowly toward the guy in the green and the other Mexican´s from the street were trying to calm them down. The American pretended to swing at the guy in green but then instead smoked the guy that was trying to calm him down, right in the mouth.

That guy took off back into a nearby shop to get his bearings, but then started back out after the American’s, this time with a collection of friends who didn’t seem as interested in just breaking up the fight.

The two Americans realized that right about that moment was a very good time to turn their tails and run.

We didn’t see much else. The bus kept going but pretty soon we saw a police truck race along past us with its lights flashing. In the back sat a police officer and the Mexican wearing the green shirt. He didn’t seem to be smiling so brightly anymore.

Tales from Mexico

On Sunday we really cut it close making our plane. We only gave ourselves about 15 minutes of extra time assuming everything else went according to plan, which would have been fine except for a couple of mix-ups like Trev forgetting his runners. Not to mention he also forgot that Drew moved about a year ago and hence he accidentally went to Drew’s old house putting us slightly behind schedule for the road.

Once we got on our way things were pretty uneventful, but there was a near disaster when Forgetful Jones Wallace forgot to pick up his wallet on the other side of security which might have resulted in a missed flight due to no ID. I have been thanking my lucky stars that I haven’t yet done anything particularly embarrassing or potentially trip ending but remember the week is young. Anyway it’s all good and we are having lots of fun in the sun.

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Today we hired a charter to take us to a couple of different villas up the coast and had fun snorkeling as well as hiking around on a couple of different beaches. The boat ride was really a blast. All of a sudden Drew was hit with a wave of nausea and began a not so friendly reunion with his breakfast on the port side. He looked in quite a bit of discomfort so I didn’t think it would have been right to document it in pictures. However I´m pretty sure Steve and/or Trev got a photo.

While Drew was just kind of taking it easy we were learning that it’s the manta ray mating season right now. There are lots and lots of large and small manta rays scouting the area looking for action. We were amazed to see one giant manta ray breach the water completely. Steve and Trev hopped in to get a closer look and I captured a photo with the manta as one of its fins came up out of the water. When I jumped in myself I was too late they were long gone.

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When we got to town, we lounged around a bit, I picked up some stomach settling pills for Drew and eventually we hiked up to see a waterfall. Unfortunately when we got there we discovered it was pretty dry. Apparently they are on the verge of a water shortage in the village and so there isn’t a lot left over for the river, but despite that, it was still a nice hike.

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We had dinner on the beach, enjoyed the weather and scenery for awhile and then and headed back into town.

Moving to Quebec

I’ve been thinking about this for awhile and so today I filled out the application for the Explore program, which means that (assuming I’m accepted) I’ll be moving travelling to Quebec sometime in either the spring or summer for a five week course in beginner’s level French and I’ll be living either in a residence or with a home-stay family. This is the most excited I’ve been about the French I’ve been slowly learning for the past six months.

Grand Canyon Walkway

Grand Canyon Walkway

Coming to a Grand Canyon near you — January 2006. Yes it’s true.

Grand Canyon Skywalk
Scheduled to open January 1, 2006
Hualapai Indian Reservation

  • Juts out about 70 feet into the canyon, 4000 ft above the Colorado River
  • Built with more than a million pounds of steel beams and includes dampeners that minimize the structure’s vibration
  • Designed to hold 72 million pounds, withstand an 8.0 magnitude earthquake 50 miles away, and withstand winds in excess of 100 mph
  • Has a glass bottom and sides…four inches thick
  • Will accommodate 120 people comfortably (How comfortable would YOU be?)

(via Snopes)

Update: Here is another image of the Grand Canyon walkway, apparently from M.R.J Architects.

Grand Canyon Walkway

Update: Here is a photo of the finished skywalk: